Whether you are a beginner or an expert, there are certain tools that every gardener needs to be successful and have a more enjoyable time gardening.

When you are looking to purchase any garden tool, we highly recommend that you only purchase quality products. This will insure that you have the tool for many years to come, which will help you save money in the long run.

Also, it is disappointing when a tool breaks in the middle of working with it and you don’t have a replacement on hand.

GARDEN TROWEL / SPADE

One of the most basic tools in a garden, a hand trowel or spade is essential a small hand-held shovel that is made for digging up weeds, scooping soil, planting, and transplanting plants.

There are several different designs, including one with a saw blade on now side for cutting through roots. Because of the different designs, you may need more than one spade.

Choose a model with a non-slip grip, ergonomic handle to prevent hand aches and slippage. A stainless steel trowel is more durable, as it is less likely to rust.

Regardless of your skill level, a hand-held trowel is an essential tool that every gardener should have in their tool shed.

PRUNING SHEARS

There are several reasons to own a good pair of pruning shears, but the main one is for convenience. These tools help to cut branches quickly and efficiently without straining your hands.

A good pair of pruning shears should be easy to maintain and sharpen. It should also come with a locking mechanism that keeps the blades closed when not in use.

If you are planning to buy a new pair, choose ones made from durable materials and one that is designed to swap out components quickly.

This is particularly important for young children who could potentially damage the blades of the pruners. Proper use of pruning shears is vital for the health and beauty of the plants.

Pruning will keep the plant healthy and attractive, preventing the plant from growing out of control. There are several types of pruning shears, which are categorized as an anvil, bypass, and ratchet.

Depending on the purpose, you might need to buy one that is suitable for both your needs and your budget.

Bypass pruners are best used for cutting live wood, while anvil pruners are mainly used for removing dead wood. A bypass pruner is easier to use than an anvil pruner and is great for cutting twigs and thicker stems.

HAND-HELD WEEDERS

A hand-held weeder is a useful lightweight tool to remove weeds from your garden beds or around shrubs. Hand-held weeders come in a wide variety of designs.

Some are miniature hoes, while others resemble long-handled weeding tools. Despite their short handles, these weeders still give you good control and are powerful enough to make the job quick and easy.

A fishtail weeder is another essential tool for your garden. Its long, narrow shaft makes it easy to dig deep into the soil and work across large areas.

Its blade is in the shape of an upside-down V and helps remove roots and weeds. Some of these tools have ergonomic handles, while others have a fulcrum for a steady grip.

GARDEN RAKE

The handles are made from wood, aluminum, stainless steel, or fiberglass, but we recommend going with an aluminum handle because it is lightweight and will last for years.

Rakes help remove stones before planting, smoothing out the surface of the soil, and preparing your garden bed.

GARDEN HOE

A garden hoe has a long handle with a paddle or blade at the end, but this tool also is available as a hand tool for tight places.

This tool can also come as a combo, with a 3 prong rake that can make weeding easier, especially when the root system is close to the surface of the ground.

This simple but important tool is used for removing weeds at the roots as well as mounding up soil and shaping it.

This is great when your potato plants need more topsoil and is also helpful when making strawberry beds. There are different variations to this tool depending on your needs.

CULTIVATOR

A cultivator is a tool with a long handle that is used to break up the soil at the surface, preparing the soil for fertilizing, better watering as well as removing weeds.

You should look for a sturdy handle and a solid shaft will be the best quality and last the longest.

Tiller

A good tiller will make the work of cultivating your soil easier and faster, but it is more costly than a cultivator and may only be used once or twice a year. Tillers are more practical for medium to large-sized gardens because of the time savings over the use of a cultivator.

Also, a quality tiller starts at around $300 and goes up from there to over $2,000 and with a smaller garden, this expense may not be worth it.

SHOVELS

When digging the soil in your garden, a shovel is a must-have tool. There are several types to choose from. Most shovels are sharp and have a step on top of the blade.

This step helps the gardener push the shovel into the ground with their foot. There are several types of shovels and some people confuse a spade with a shovel.

A spade is similar to a shovel but has a flat blade with a concave design. A spade is designed to dig soil and can be used as a scooper or a digger. The edges are sharp and help cut through tough soil.

Some spades have a step to help users leverage their legs when digging. Another type of digging shovel is the trenching shovel. It is a cross between a transfer shovel and a drain spade.

A trenching shovel has a long blade and a pointed tip, which reduces disruption to the sides of a trench. It also has a flat bottom, which makes it good for edging. These two types of digging shovels are an essential part of a gardener’s toolbox.

They can be used to dig holes for fencing and for trenching irrigation systems. No matter what you need to dig, a gardening shovel will help you get the job done faster and easier.

TYPES OF SHOVELS

With many different kinds of shovels, choosing the right one for the job can be the difference between a short task and one that takes all day.

FLAT SHOVEL

Flat shovels are designed with a flat square blade to scoop dirt, mulch, or gravel and are the perfect shovel to use with a wheelbarrow.

POINTED SHOVEL

Pointed shovels are designed with a point at the tips of the shovel, narrows towards the tip, curves up slightly, and are made for digging.

The foot plate allows you to use your weight to push the blade deeper into the dirt and makes it easier when digging in heavily compacted soil.

SHORT-HANDLED UTILITY SHOVEL

These shovels are just like pointed shovels but with a shorter D-handle, making this perfect for working in tight spaces.

TRENCH SHOVEL

This shovel is also known as a ditch shovel and is perfect for digging shallow trenches, as well as cleaning them out.

They have a long, narrow blade with a pointed tip, and are set at an angle to the handle.

Because the blade is so narrow, using your foot to drive the blade into the soil is not possible. Instead of using your foot, you will have to use arm power and because of this, it will be difficult to dip a deep trench.

WHEELBARROW

Wheelbarrows are good for adding or removing soil from your garden and they come in different sizes and are made of steel or plastic. For a typical backyard garden, a 4 – 6 cubic feet wheelbarrow will be sufficient.

Ones made from plastic should be made with UV-resistant plastic. Steel wheelbarrows should be hung on a barn wall, or turned upside down with 3 – 4 bricks or blocks.

This is to make sure that water doesn’t collect at the bottom of the wheelbarrow and rust it out.

GARDEN HOSE AND A WATERING WAND

Garden hoses come in many different lengths and qualities, but what is most important is protecting the hoses from the damaging rays of the sun with a hose reel.

When using a hose reel or just coiling up your hose, take your time and don’t put kinks in the hose. Over time, this leads to pinholes in the hose which will lead to larger holes.

Watering wands come in many different styles, with some being ergonomically designed for the hand. Unlike traditional watering cans, watering wands provide a gentle, rain-like spray that doesn’t drown plants.

Instead of a hard blast, the watering wand prevents the soil from splashing out and damaging delicate plants. These wands also have long shafts that enable you to reach plants without bending or squatting.

They help you water your plants efficiently, reducing the chance of injuries from repetitive motion. Watering wands are available in different lengths and colors, and allow you to find the right one for your specific needs.

They also allow you to reach plants in window boxes and balconies. The main difference between a watering wand and a spray nozzle is that the former is designed for watering plants, while the latter allows you to water the soil with a low-pressure stream that won’t disturb the leaves or foliage.

When choosing between watering wands and spray nozzles, it’s important to find a model that suits your needs.

GARDENING GLOVES

A good pair of gardening gloves can come in handy when pruning plants like a rose bush, but they can also help prevent blister and abrasion.

They also help you keep your grip, reduce hand fatigue, and yes keep your hand clean. This may be more desirable with container gardening for some people.

There are eight must-have herbs to grow in your garden, from savory to sweet, these herbs are useful in various culinary dishes.

Herbs are easy to grow in a garden or a container and they can help to give your food flavor all year long.

Growing herbs in containers is a good option for anyone who doesn’t have the space, especially in a garden.

Some herbs though should be grown in your garden because of their ability to attract the right kind of insects or deter the wrong kind of insects.

1. BASIL

Basil is native to the tropical regions of Central Africa to Southeast Asia where it is treated as an annual plant. However, it can also be grown as a perennial.

It is known for its fragrant leaves that are used in popular culinary recipes, it that can grow to be as tall as 1 foot, and the time to harvest is three to four weeks.

Basil is best harvested by clipping the stem above the point where the two largest leaves meet. Regular clipping of the stems will result in a bushier and more rounded plant with more leaves.

If you’re growing it in a pot, keep in mind that it needs watering more frequently than other plants. Water it deep when the top inch of soil is dry and as the weather warms up, it will need even more watering.

Mulch or rocks will help to keep moisture in the soil and extend watering intervals.

Ideally, you should plant the seeds six weeks before the last frost. However, basil is sensitive to cold, therefore using a seed starter tray will allow you to start the seeds early indoors.

VARIETIES

• Sweet basil
• Holy basil – is also known as sacred basil or tulsi in India and is called kaphrao in Thai.
• Thai basil
• Camphor Basil
• Dark opal basil
• Lemon basil – a cross-pollinated hybrid between Thai basil and Mrs. burns’ lemon.
• African blue basil – a cross-pollinated hybrid between camphor basil and dark opal basil.
• Lettuce leaf basil
• Mammoth basil
• Dwarf bush basil
• Genovese basil
• Nufar basil – a variety of Genovese basil and is resistant to fusarium wilt.
• Spicy globe basil – grows more like a bush.

TIME TO HARVEST

• 50 – 70 days

SOIL PH LEVELS

• 6.0 – 7.5

PESTS

• Aphids
• Cutworms
• Flea Beetles
• Grasshoppers
• Japanese Beetles
• Leafminers
• Nematodes
• Snails and slugs
• Whiteflies
• Spider mites
• Caterpillars
• Thrips

DISEASES

• Cercospora leaf spot
• Downy Mildew
• Fusarium Wilt
• Leaf spot

2. CHIVES

Chives are naturally widespread throughout much of Europe, Asia, and North America. It is related to onions, shallots, scallion, garlic, leeks, and Chinese onion, with the flowers and leaves being eatable.

Planting chives in early spring will give you the best results, but they can also be planted in fall in the lower south for harvest during winter.

They prefer a sunny location but they will tolerate partial shade and are also drought resistant.

When planting them in your garden, keep in mind that they need to be planted 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost, but they can be started indoors by using cardboard seed starter pots or an empty cardboard egg carton.

Chives are perennials that will do well in containers, allowing enough room for them to spread, but when established, they need little care although you must harvest the leaves regularly to encourage new growth.

They should be harvested by hand when the leaves are six inches tall and the leaves should be cut about half an inch above the soil level.

TIME TO HARVEST

• 50 – 70 days

SOIL PH LEVELS

• 6.1 – 7.8

PESTS

• Aphids
• Thrips – onion thrips and western flower thrips.
• Onion maggot

DISEASES

• Puccinia alli – also known as rust fungus and chive rust.
• Phoma terrestris
• Rhizoctonia solani
• Fusarium culmorum
• Pythium aphanidermatum

3. Mint

Mint is a widely distributed plant that can be found in wet environments, where it grows best, across North America, Europe, Africa, Asia, and Australia.

Unlike most herbs, mint prefers moist soil that is well-drained and should be planted about 2 feet apart because it can grow to be 2 feet tall.

This pungent perennial herb grows so fast and will quickly take over an area if left unattended, therefore you will need to harvest or trim them more often than other herbs.

Because of their ability to grow so fast, they are a good fit to be grown in containers that can be placed anywhere.

This herb can be used for many purposes, such as soothing gastrointestinal issues, helping with digestion, relieving headaches, and repelling bugs.

VARIETIES

• Peppermint
• Spearmint
• Pineapple mint
• Chocolate mint
• Japanese peppermint – also known as American wild mint, Canada mint, Chinese mint, Sakhalin mint, and East Asian wild mint. It contains higher amounts of menthol which gives the minty aroma and flavor.
• American wild mint – also referred to as Canada mint.
• New Zealand mint
• Slender mint – native to South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales, Queensland, and Tasmania.
• Forest mint – native to eastern Australia.

TIME TO HARVEST

• 75 – 90 days

SOIL PH LEVELS

• 6.5 – 7.0

PESTS

• Root Borers
• Spider mites

DISEASES

• Verticillium Wilt – also known as fusarium wilt.
• Powdery mildew

4. THYME

Thyme is native to the Mediterranean region and was used by the ancient Egyptians, ancient Greeks, and the Romans.

It is mainly used today for culinary purposes, but it can also be used for medicinal purposes as well as decorative purposes.

When planting it, make sure to space the plants 12 to 24 inches apart. Plant them in well-drained, fertile soil that contains plenty of organic matter.

When choosing thyme for your herb garden, make sure you choose a variety that has low maintenance requirements.

Harvesting should begin at the outermost branches of the plant and work its way down the stem. By cutting off the outermost branches, you’ll encourage branching and more leaf production.

You should also remember that thyme is a perennial herb. As such, it grows year-round in milder climates and you can even cultivate this herb as an evergreen.

VARIETIES

• Silver thyme
• English thyme
• Lemon thyme
• Orange balsam thyme
• Pennsylvania Dutch tea thyme
• Juniper thyme
• Hi-Ho silver thyme
• Caraway thyme
• Italian oregano thyme
• Foxley thyme

TIME TO HARVEST

• 75 – 90 days

SOIL PH LEVELS

• 6.5 – 7.0

PESTS

• Aphids
• Meadow moth
• Sandy slow
• Weevil

5. CILANTRO

Cilantro also known as coriander is native to Southern Europe, South-Western Asia, and North Africa.

It’s important to work the soil evenly because cilantro plants have deep and long taproots.

Growing cilantro in a container that is at least 8 inches deep is a great way to enjoy this aromatic, pungent herb year-round.

If you want to make a continuous harvest throughout the season, plant cilantro seeds every two weeks or so, and the time to harvest is about 30 to 55 days after sowing.

TIME TO HARVEST

• 50 – 70 days

SOIL PH LEVELS

• 6.5 – 7.5

PESTS

• Aphids
• Beet armyworms
• Leaf hoppers
• Whiteflies

DISEASES

• Pseudomaonas syringe
• Erwinia carotovora
• Erwinia chrysanthemi
• Pseudomonas marginalis
• Carrot motley dwarf disease
• Carrot mottle viris
• Powdery mildew
• Pythium spp
• Rhizoctonia solani

6. MARJORAM

Sweet Majoram or knotted marjoram as it is also known as is native to Western Asia, the Mediterranean region, Cyprus, Turkey, and the Arabian Peninsula.

Seeds are best started indoors four weeks before the average last frost date in your region.

Soak the seeds overnight to help with germination and then transplant them into larger pots or in your garden when they are about four to five inches tall.

Plant seedlings 12 inches apart in well-drained soil with plenty of sunlight.

Growing marjoram in a container is an excellent solution for those who don’t have a garden or patio. When temperatures begin to fall, it will need to be moved inside and placed in front of a sunny window.

Once the plant has rooted, they need about 21 days to start blooming and this will help to attract pollinators, which is what this plant is well known for.

TIME TO HARVEST

• 75 – 90 days

SOIL PH LEVELS

• 6.5 – 7.5

PESTS

• Whiteflies
• Spider mites
• Thrips

7. LEMON BALM

Lemon Balm is in the mint family and is native to southern Europe, Mediterranean Basin, Iran, and Central Asia.

It is a very hardy herb that can grow to a considerable size in a garden or container.

Start the seeds at least 6-8 weeks before the last frost, and transplant them outdoors once the soil has warmed up enough.

When growing lemon balm in a pot or your garden, keep in mind that it can become a bit invasive if not harvested or trimmed on a regular basis.

TIME TO HARVEST

• 50 – 70 days

SOIL PH LEVELS

• 6.0 – 7.5

PESTS

• Aphids

DISEASES

• Powdery mildew

8. NETTLE

Nettle is native to Europe, North Africa, most of Asia has more moderate temperatures and New Zealand.

It prefers moist soil that is well-drained and that already has a good amount of nitrogen in it.

Growing it in and around your garden is another great way to use a natural pesticide.

This plant also makes great fertilizers, so be sure to grow some extra for your compost pile.

This herb is a great deterrent for deer and other animals because of the hairs on the plant which are meant to protect it from predators.

Remember to use gloves when handling the hairs which contain cystoliths that can irritate the urinary system.

If you get poked by the plant, expect to see some inflammation at the site, along with some skin irritation. Using a cream with an antihistamine or hydrocortisone should give some relief.

TIME TO HARVEST

• 80 – 90 days

SOIL PH LEVELS

• 5.0 – 8.0

HARVESTING HERBS

All herbs should be harvested by hand, with the best time being in the morning. You can use a pair of scissors or pruning shears to cut the herbs.

HOW TO STORE HERBS

There are various ways to preserve them, including air-drying, freezing, and refrigerating.

If you’re going to use them soon, it’s a good idea to freeze them.

DRY THEM OUT

After the herbs have been harvested, wash them, bundle 3 to 5 stems together and wrap the steams with cotton twine, make a knot that is not too tight and leave a trail that is about 3 inches long.

Don’t bundle more of the 5 stems together because of the possibility of mold developing on the plant.

From this point, you can use the tail to hang the herbs by hanging a piece of twine and tieing the herbs to that piece of twine.

Hanging the herbs upside down while drying allows the oils in the stems to flow into the leaves, making them more flavorful.

The drying process will take 5 to 7 days, depending on the humidity level where they are being dried.

Another method for drying out your herbs is to use a dehydrator. They come in several different configurations to choose from to fit your needs.

PRESERVING HERBS IN OIL

Preserving herbs in any kind of oil is a great way to add some flavor to any dish. The leaves of any herb can be used in combination or by themselves.

Before preserving any herbs, you will need to get some glass bottles that have a resealable cap such as a twist-on cap or a reusable cork that is attached to the bottle.

Make sure that the herbs are fully dried before adding them to the oil, if any water is allowed to mix with the herbs then this will make the oil go bad or rancid and the whole contents will have to be trashed.

Basil pesto comes from Italy and is the most famous example of preserving herbs in oil, that dates back to 1863.

It is traditionally made with extra virgin olive oil, sweet basil leaves, parmigiano reggiano, peco rino, and pine nuts.

FREEZING

If you freeze the herbs after drying and preserving them in oil or butter, they can last six to nine months without significantly losing their flavor.

This method is best suited to harder varieties of herbs such as oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme, and basil. Other varieties of herbs may not freeze well, such as chives, dill, and basil.

Remember to label the herbs and include the date, this will ensure they stay fresh for as long as possible.

Are you tired of paying hundreds of dollars for chemicals to control the pests in your garden? Try natural ways to get rid of pests.

ATTRACT SOME PREDATORS OF INSECTS

USING COMPANION PLANTS TO DETER PEST

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FOR PEST CONTROL

• Aphids
• Ants
• Mites
• Snails
• Slugs
• Thrips
• Earwigs
• Adult Flea Beetles
• Cockroaches

ESSENTIAL OILS

ESSENTIAL OILS THAT REPEL GARDEN PEST

• Peppermint – aphids, beetles, slugs, cutworms, ants squirrels, chipmunks, mice, and moles
• Cinnamon – snails, ants and kills fungus
• Cedarwood – slugs and snails
• Eucalyptus – Mosquitos

INSECTICIDAL SOAP

Planting a sacrificial crop

KEEPING THE WILDLIFE OUT

DEER

MOOSE

Surveyors tape is a bright orange color and it has been shown to keep them out by using stakes around your garden and wrapping the Surveyors tape around them.

WILDLIFE IN GENERAL